We started our time in Kyoto eating falafel in a cute little place called the Falafel Garden, where we met with an online friend of mine (yes, we chat about videogames) named Kyle. Afterwards he took us to a lovely little bar where we sampled a few delicious sakes and got to know each other in real life. A splendid time was had!

Our accommodation is so comfortable we totally slept in this morning, so our day started uncharacteristically late. Once we worked out how to get bus tickets and navigate the bus system, we were on our way to Southern Higashiyami for a Lonely Planet recommended city walk.

We weaved through shrines and temples ranging from loud and crowded to empty and tranquil. We marched down stunning old roads lined with stores and hundreds of people, as well as ducking down famous but hidden side streets all alone. One of the temples featured a pitch black tunnel you could enter, where you have to feel your way along a single beaded railing or get totally lost in the dark. At the end of the passage is a stark, beautifully lit engraved stone that you touch to make a wish. Quite amazing!

We boldly powered north, down the supposed “Philosophers Path”, a lovely stroll along a narrow canal that has some historical significance, but is mostly an exercise in clever marketing. Supposedly stunning in Cherry Blossom season though!

Before we knew it, we’d walked 15km and were standing out front of the Kyoto University of Art & Design, waiting for Emi who would collect us for a cooking course. She took us to her house and put us through the motions, showing us 4 Vegan dishes (a sesame seed dressing green veggie salad, sesame tofu balls, lotus root burger patties and a tofu wrap in a soup) and ending with macha balls for dessert. The recipes tended towards traditional Japanese home cooking, which Emi learnt from her mother, as well as some innovative dishes of her own. Information overload, but an absolutely delicious and informative way to spend the evening.

Emi was extremely friendly and generous, and that has been our experience with many people in Kyoto. When we looked lost at the train station, a lovely woman came right up to us and physically led us in the right direction. A cashier at a convenience store helped us find bus tickets despite having no English. When we were enjoying the view at a temple, a lovely older gentleman offered to take photos to us and warmly welcomed us to Kyoto, before shuffling away, wanting nothing in return. All over Kyoto we’re meeting lovely, warm people, and we couldn’t feel more welcome. (Kyle was lovely too, but he’s Canadian, so it doesn’t count.)