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Goodbye, Florence. Hello, Naples!

Sad arrividerci to Florence today, as we boarded a train to Naples.

Naples is ALIVE! Bustling streets, screaming locals, cars chasing down pedestrians, motorbikes swerving, aged buildings with modern adaptations, graffiti, baby stroller impaled on an old church gate. Awesome! Totally vibrant and passionate town.

Our train got stuck for a while, so by the time we checked into our hotel (the rather spacious Hotel Bellini) we were starving. Went to a place the Lonely Planet recommended called La Cantina Della Sapienza. Full of locals, loud and friendly, with a dude playing a drum and singing in the corner. We had Eggplant Parmigana which was delicious, and we fell in love with Naples rather quickly!

Maybe it was just what we ordered, but I really noticed that the food around here feels like Lebanese food. Lots of similar ingredients and flavours. Even the drummer/singer was drumming a beat that was familiar. I’m curious to see how common this is…

Marthese was exhausted so retired to the Hotel while I ventured forth to the Naples Archaeological Museum. We only have 2 nights here so I needed to check it out! And it was phenomenal, so far an absolute trip highlight. Full of ancient Greek and Roman sculptures, mosaics, pottery, paintings and coins, much of it taken from nearby Pompeii and Herculaneum. Some parts had lots of info, others were extremely poorly signed and I wasn’t sure what I was looking at. Rick Steve’s Self-Guided Tour helped a little, but I still craved more info! Not nearly as bad as the Cairo Museum.

The whole thing was completely overwhelming, staring at 2000 year old sculptures and busts depicting Roman rulers and Greek Gods. A lot of them had been reconstructed, but considering the mammoth size of so many of the pieces I’m amazed so much survived!

Surprisingly the Museum was pretty much empty! Usually I was completely alone as I wandered the huge rooms (I think the museum was formerly a palace). Loved it, felt like everything was there just for me.

Am exhausted now, hoping I can muster the energy to hit the street again and try some Napoli Pizza!

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Wrapping up our time in Florence with a few last sights

Busy day! We've spent the last week living next door to the Basilica di San Lorenzo, so decided to pop in! Another large cavernous church, this one particularly impressive as it is the burial place of all the major Medicis.

Next stop – Palazzo Vecchio. Again. Today was the soonest we could do the "secret passages" tour, where we got to travel through some escape routes of the palace, see some secret rooms (Francesco's private collection room being stupidly opulent and impressive) and even check out the roof to see how the massive roof and ceiling are kept from collapsing. Worthwhile tour, lots of insight on the artworks and Medicis.

A quick stroll across the river and lunch at Zeb – superfresh and delicious ravioli. Unlike anything I'd ever eaten before, and Marthese claims "some of the best pasta I've ever had."

Then a climb upto Piazzale Michelangelo for some spectacular views and some OK gelato. Also checked out a nice church up here.

Back across the river to the Basilica of Santa Croce. A really impressive church which is probably most famous for containing the tombs of Galileo, Michelangelo and Machiavelli. I got a bit excited that Marconi might be buried there but it turned out to be just a memorial plaque. Lots of great art here too, but the tombs of legends were the major attraction. Some side chapels and museums, containing random things like St Francis' robes.

Just as fatigue was beginning to set in, Marthese and I decided to part ways – she went shopping while I ran off to find the supposed "Leonardo Da Vinci Museum". I found it, it was a mixed bag. Mostly it was a few large rooms with recreations of Leonardo's desgins and inventions, including flying machines, instruments of war and various cranks and gears. You could play with some of these, but it would have been nice to have more information and context with each item. Still, it was quite inspiring to see Da Vinci's ingenuity and creativity on display. They also had an art section up the back, so got to see prints of The Last Supper (take that, Milan!) and the Mona Lisa (cop it, Paris!). Bought a book about Da Vinci to make up for the lack of detail in the "museum" (it felt more like a temporary display, perhaps it is, I can't read Italian. Yet.)

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A daytrip to Fiesole

A short 20-minute bus ride from the heart of Florence, Fiesole is a cute little town up a mountain. Loads of charm, gorgeous views, and some cool ruins to walk around. Its been raining the past couple of days, but today the sun was out, perfect day to view the Tuscan landscape. Photos do it no justice (also I'm still not sure how to use this camera).

Ate at I'polpa on Marthese's mother's recommendation. Lovely. Marthese had a tasty risotto, I had Wild Boar cooked in red wine and chocolate. Hell yes.

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Spent a while today staring at a large naked man

David was awesome. Spine tingles. Not sure if its because of the quality of Michelangelo's work, or merely being in the presence??of such a cultural and artistic icon. But a wonderful experience.??

The Accademia Gallery was quiet while we were there, benefit of being here in Winter, only about a dozen people looking at David. The rest of the gallery was a bit hit and miss. The Bartolini exhibit was fantastic, a sculptor whose work I'd been unaware of but was really impressed by. I also enjoyed the section of the museum with antique instruments, and learning about how Bartolomeo Cristofori developed the Pianoforte (if I understand correctly, this was developing the method of hammer on strings used by modern pianos).

Otherwise, the rest of the artworks on display tended to be religious in nature and less impressive than what we've previously seen, although we may well be over-saturated at this point. And we haven't even been to Rome yet!

No photos from the Accademia. Hopefully we can get a photo with the David replica at the Piazzale Michelangelo on the weekend.

Excellent lunch at the Tratorria Mario (blurry pic below, next door to our other favourite Florence feeding hole) and then some market strolls.

Next visited the Palazzo Meddici-Riccardi, which is used by the current local council for meetings, events and such. More galleries, chapel and cool old palace stuff inside.??

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Just another day in Florence – Palaces, Art and Science

Gloomier day today, ending in a little light rain, but not enough to sour Florence. You'd need a flood.

Strolled down to the Ponte Vecchio, then headed upto the Palazzo Pitti, former Medici and Savoy residences. More art overload in the Galleria Palatina & Galleria d'Arte Moderna ??? moving from renaissance to the romantic period and beyond, documenting the local and foreign powers that dominated Italy, with more religious works thrown in for good measure. 18th century Austrian furnishings fill rooms below Greek gods on the ceiling. There was a lot going on.

We also checked out the Galleria del Costume which attempted to show the development of fashion trends over the past few hundred years. We did a quick stroll through the Boboli Gardens, but it wasn't so nice out there so we didn't linger.

Here is also where I received a phonecall from Schmoo. Hi, Schmoo!

After another sandwich lunch (yum!) we wandered over to the Galileo Museum which housed lots of scientific devices from the 14th century onwards. Great to see the development of early cartography, physics, chemisty and astronomy. Mind blowing, and a good break from all the art.

Couldn't take photos in most of the places I describe. Now we're back at the hotel and zonked. Need a nap before dinner.

Ciao.

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Today we saw artworks by the Ninja Turtles and got a glimpse of Medici lifestyle

Stop no. 1 today was the Uffizi museum – housing some remarkable works by the Ninja Turtles (Leonardo, Michelangelo, Raphael and, well there wasn’t a Donatello but there was one later on in the day at the Palazzo Vecchio) as well as some amazing Boticelli, Tintoretto and a gazillion other artists all on display. An amazing Classical Roman collection too. Totally overwhelming and easy to get “art fatigue” but I bought a great little book to take home and enjoy at my own pace. No photos allowed inside the muesum. 

After stopping for a Porchetta Panini (Marthese had a rather delicious eggplant and cheese thingy) we ducked into the Palazzo Vecchio, currently a museum as well as Florence’s Town Hall, previously a Medici house of power/residence (?). Another amzing building, walls adorned with art, opulent and intimidating to visiting diplomats. I used to know so much about this period back in High School, really need a refresher!

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Buongiorno, Florence! Nice Duomo you got there.

Within 2 hours of leaving Marthese’s parents in Verona (bye and thanks for everything!!), we arrived in Florence (Firenze). Early start, gloomy day. Great hotel location, right next door to the Medici Chapel.

So while waiting for our room to be ready, we took a little stroll and ended up at the Duomo (Basilica di Santa Maria del Fiore)! Mighty fine building. We decided to join a random line (there were a few) and it ended up to be the one that let us climb the dome. 500 something steps, but well worth it.

So far Florence feels much more touristy than Verona and other places we’ve been (aside from Venice) but it also feels more “lived in”. We’re spending a week here and I can’t wait to immerse myself in it more!

Ciao.

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Wine tasting in an Italian Cave

After getting off the train from Brig to Verona, we were piled into a car and off for a wine tasting spree with Marthese’s Parents!

 

We went to an old converted cave where Zyme wines store their wine casks. After a quick tour, we were led to the tasting room. I’d promised myself I wouldn’t buy any wine, but of course after a whole lot of wine and grappa all promises become null and void.

 

Went to bed with a sore head. I love Italy.
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